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I Have some question about the construction of the MT 102 mid top horn

Q1: Are the two 10" speakers in a separate compartment to the horn, i.e. fully boxed at 540 up from the base?:

A: Yes, both 10” drivers share the same box with each other but not the top horn.

Q2: Within the rear enclosure there are 2 uprights shown 150 wide either side of the drivers, do these fully enclose the box each side, leaving the areas out side of this empty space?:

A: Yes again, these bits of wood just make the rear enclosure a bit smaller, it would be even better if you made these bits of wood 280 mm wide instead of 300 mm wide. After experimenting a bit I have found it better with a smaller rear chamber.

Q3: With regard to the speaker baffle, I am unclear as to whether the holes for the two drivers are circular to the chassis of the speaker as in a normal baffle, or are cut only with the 150mm slot vertically.:

A: This is a hard one to explain. The first piece of wood, the one nearest the horn throat or the one at which the pointer is pointing to with the words “Baffle 280 mm wide 12 mm MDF”, has a rectangular hole cut in it. The hole will be 150 mm wide by 420 high, which is the same size as the throat. The baffle behind that one carries the drivers, so has two round holes cut in it 240 mm across. You will screw or ideally drill holes and put t nuts between the two baffles, to secure the drivers to there baffle. Try to get the two drivers as close as is possible to each other.

Q4: Is the horn positioned at the very front of the enclosure or recessed?:

A: The horn is recessed by 30 mm to allow for a grill to be fitted if needed.

Q5: What thickness timber should the curved flares be, and is it best to pack behind them with fiberglass?:

A: The flares should be 3 mm plywood bent around upright softwood formers, something like 25 x 50 mm planed softwood is good for the formers. You will need to glue and nail the 3 mm ply to the formers. If you want an even better result then you should glue and nail another layer of 3 mm plywood to the first so that you now have a thickness of 6 mm. You can do this one more time and make the flare thickness 9 mm for the best result. You should not put fiberglass in the space behind the flares, for a really good result you should inject expanding foam into the dead space behind the flares.

Q6: Again would 100mm fiberglass be required in the driver compartment, or is this unnecessary with the mid range?:

A: It is very important with mid range. I found the more fiberglass that can be put in the drivers rear chamber the better. Use 100 mm think fiberglass and staple or nail it to the rear chamber top, bottom, side and rear walls. The fiberglass will compress to a thickness of around 25 mm after you have stapled it to the walls of the rear chamber, this is correct, you are not after a thickness of 100 mm in the chamber, just use 100 mm think fiberglass

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