First get your wood cut up. If you have your
own panel saw then it's easy, if you don't then you will have to get
someone else to do it for you. Most DIY depots have large panel saws and
will do the cuts for you for a small fee. In most of Europe the DIY
depots have large 3 by 4 meter wall mounted panel saws that will give
you very accurate cuts if the operator knows what he is doing. In the US
a lot of the home depots have smaller 6 feet high stand alone panel saws,
these are not very good and you would be better of getting your local
wood shop to cut the wood for you. If the cabinet is for permanent
installation in a dry place then its ok to use 18 mm (3/4") MDF. For all
other applications and for road cabs use 18 mm plywood. Use Baltic or
Far Eastern ply and for the best results use Scandinavian Birch. Don't
use ply with less than 9 laminates as it will fall apart at the corners.
For best results use 13 laminate ply.
For the next stage you will need a long ruler,
a set square and the plans. Lay down one of the sides of the cabinet,
from now on it's the base. Mark out where all the panels of wood go from
the plan, do this very accurately and take your time as if you are not
accurate the rest of the project will be out. It's not ok just to hold a
panel where it should go and draw round it. This is not accurate enough.
Draw all lines with a ruler and use the set square to make sue that all
lines at 90 degrees are true.
This is why you will need the set square. Use
it to make sure the ruler is at 90 degrees when it comes to marking
Next drill clearance holes for the screws. Use
4 x 40 mm (1 1/2" No 8) screws with a cross head. Modern PVA wood glue
dries stronger than the wood itself and I've found no differences in
cabinet strength putting screws every 150 mm (6") or like in the photo
above using just 2 or 3 screws per panel. The screws are there to keep
the panels together while the glue dries and you don't need to use
hundreds of them.
You will need to make countersinks on both
sides of the base. Make shallow countersinks on the side that the panels
attach to and deeper ones on the underside you screw from.
This photo shows the under side of the base
with its countersunk holes.
Now its time to attach the first panel. Use a
good PVA wood glue like resin W. If you have not made cabinets before it
helps to get someone to hold the panels in place while you drill the
pilot holes. Use a 2 mm drill bit to make the pilot holes from the
underside of the base. Blow off all the saw dust left from making the
pilot holes and put glue on the base only where the two panels are to
join. Get you mate to hold the panel while you screw it in place from
underneath. If the panel moves when you screw it and it does not line up,
then slacken off the screws a bit and move the panel in the direction
you need it to go whilst screwing it back up. If you do this a couple of
times the panel normally moves back to where you wanted it in the first
Your notice on the photo above that the
clearance holes and the countersinks have been pre drilled on the panel
that's just been attached. It a good idea to pre drill and countersink
all the holes before you start to attach the panels together as you will
break the join if you start drilling holes after you have glued the
This bandpass design uses a shelf port. There
are two ways to make a shelf port. If you are confident like me, then
you can add the port brace at this stage. This only works if you are
very accurate with your cuts, as if the brace is to short or to long the
bottom of the cab will be out of alignment.
This photo shows the other way to make a shelf
port. Attach the brace to the bottom of the cab first and then attach
the bottom to the base. Doing it this way will always make sure that the
bottom of the cabinet is in alignment with the base. You should also
notice a line that runs from the back to the front of the bottom panel.
This is exactly half way down the panel and is to make sure that the
brace is half way down the port. Mark these lines on the bottom and the
port before you start gluing.
This photo shows the finished shelf port. I
did this port the hard way by attaching the bottom last. I did say that
I was confident about the bottom lining up perfectly and it did.
The bandpass cab has 3 miters that need to be
cut. The next section of the construction guide shows you how to make
miters or angled cuts. Click on the next button to go to the next